it sometimes seems to me that the only thing i can remember how to say in german is "ist der platz frei?" in a sometimes beseeching tone. this is unsurprising as i am horribly unfit (fat and scant of breath, like hamlet) and when in europe have to dive for the nearest bench every so often and hope the other will budge a bit.

uphill walking/hiking in the last 3 days

-- 1.5 hours to andechs monstery, and another 1.5 downhill
-- the marienbrucke (twice!) 45mins hike each way
-- neuschwanstein castle by the longer, paved road (easier or the feet and knees, but longer and not so picturesque)
-- a climb to the venus grotto at linderhof (not, i fear, worth the trek)
-- steep steps at every palace, castle, abbey, church
-- including climbing the tower of the alter peter in munich (14 storeys of narrow spiralling up up and up and not there yet)


i would feel prouder of myself if i weren't so darn tired. physical fitness, she says solemnly, is for other people.

more trip stories to follow.